Full disclosure…I love this place. I spent two maternity leaves exploring every square inch of this jumble of fabulous contradictions - Victorian splendour vs brutalist concrete, mummy’s in cream and beige vs raw urban graffiti and a skate park, sweet birdsong vs traffic and sirens…and then there are the bonkers, anatomically inaccurate dinosaurs and two sphinxes overlooking the Italian terraces, the concert bowl and the maze. That is only scratching the surface - play areas, sand pit, farm are also gloriously waiting to be discovered too at Crystal Palace Park.
I’ve sat on every bench and breast fed, run along every path, wobbling in torturous “buggy fit” classes and rolled down every hill chasing scamps. There was a time when I was there three times a day, endlessly walking prams and pushchairs with two children who steadfastly refused to sleep during the day - my own sanity hung on the thread of Crystal Palace Park induced sleep!
Today, however, I was scamp free and I have enjoyed seeing the park through different eyes - utterly delicious and leisurely scrambled eggs and smashed peas on marmite sourdough (I’m still thinking about it) at the Brown and Green Life café, followed by a caramel latte from the Concert Café at the top of the park with a slow stroll between, taking in the Crystal Palace Museum (it’s free!). I didn’t step foot in a playground all afternoon, but couldn’t resist the dinos!
The history of Crystal Palace Park is a rich tapestry, even if it’s not quite as impressive as the grandeur of the Crystal Palace itself. This colossal glass-and-iron structure, once home to the Great Exhibition of 1851, was relocated to Sydenham Hill in 1854, but sadly burned down in 1936. All that is left now at the Park are the glorious Italian terraces and the large central staircase.
Sir Richard Owen, the brilliant (but apparently not that good with details) paleontologist, created a series of dinosaur statues in the park back in the mid-19th century. These sculptures, while charming in their own right, bear about as much resemblance to actual dinosaurs as a papier-mâché model of the Eiffel Tower does to the real thing. Some of these statues look like creatures that belong to a sci-fi B-movie, while others appear to have been dreamt up after a particularly wild night at the local pub. One must admire the enthusiasm of the Victorians who built these sculptures with the limited scientific knowledge of their time. While their efforts might not have won any accuracy awards, they’ve captured the hearts of generations of visitors. They are a delightful reminder that sometimes, science and art make for strange bedfellows.
Of course, Crystal Palace Park isn’t just about dinosaurs, no matter how charmingly erroneous they might be. It offers a variety of attractions and activities for visitors to enjoy. From serene lakes to well-maintained gardens, the park provides a refreshing escape from the urban jungle.
Back in the Victorian era, the park was a bustling hub of activity. It was the place to be seen, the hottest spot in town. However, as time moved on, the park has faced its fair share of ups and downs. The grandeur may have faded a bit, but like a former child star navigating adulthood, it still manages to captivate and charm.
Visitors to Crystal Palace Park can indulge in a leisurely picnic on its sprawling lawns, take a serene boat ride across its lakes, or simply relax amidst nature’s embrace. If you’re lucky, you might spot a few swans gliding gracefully through the water, seemingly unimpressed by the occasional discarded sandwich crusts.
Crystal Palace Park is a delightful testament to the quirky, historical, and endearing aspects of London’s green spaces. From its inaccurate yet lovable dinosaurs to its Victorian heritage and modern-day allure, the park stands as a unique slice of history amidst the urban chaos.
Whether you’re a history buff, a nature lover, or simply in the mood for a whimsical adventure, Crystal Palace Park is a must-visit destination that promises to leave you with a smile and a sense of wonder. You won't be disappointed!
Comments